Few sneakers have a history as fascinating as the adidas BW Army. Long before it became a fashion staple, inspired luxury designers, and found its way onto mood boards across social media, the BW Army was built for one purpose: military training. Today, it's recognised as one of the most influential low-profile sneakers ever made, and its understated design is more relevant than ever. Here's everything you need to know about the adidas BW Army.
What Does BW Army Even Mean?
"BW" stands for Bundeswehr, the German armed forces. The silhouette was originally developed as an indoor training shoe for the West German military during the late 1970s and early 1980s. The exact origins of the shoe are still a little up in the air, with both adidas and PUMA having been linked to the original production. The design became standard issue for thousands of Bundeswehr recruits thanks to its lightweight construction, gum sole, and dependable grip.
When the Berlin Wall came down and Cold War ended military surplus flooded European stores, and the simple white leather trainer found an unexpected second life. Affordable, durable, and effortlessly wearable, it quickly became a cult favourite among those who appreciated understated design.
BW vs GAT
Although sneakerheads know it as the BW Army or German Army Trainer (GAT), many fashion fans first discovered the silhouette through Maison Margiela. In 1999, after discovering the army surplus shoes on the streets of Europe, Martin Margiela introduced vintage Bundeswehr training shoes on the runway before eventually creating the now-iconic Replica sneaker. Because the original military design was never protected by a single copyright holder, countless brands have since created their own interpretations. But adidas and Margiela’s versions still remain the most influential.
Maison Margiela Replicas
The influence of the BW Army can still be seen today. Its clean proportions, premium leather upper, suede toe overlay, and gum outsole helped define the minimalist sneaker aesthetic long before low-profile silhouettes dominated the market.
The Comeback
After several years away from the spotlight, adidas officially brought the BW Army back with refined ‘Lux’ editions that stay true to the original military trainer while upgrading the materials. Premium leather uppers, cracked leather detailing, soft suede overlays, leather linings, and the signature gum sole all combine to create a sneaker that feels both vintage and contemporary. Since then, adidas has continued to expand the range with new colourways and premium constructions, proving that the silhouette deserves a place alongside the brand's other iconic terrace classics.
adidas x Hartcopy
There’s also the collaborations. In 2024, before adidas brought back the silhouette in full, the BW Army got a special collaboration with Hartcopy. It’s a great fit, not only does the BW Army have a clean look, but its got a story that was sure to be appreciated by the team that specialises in cataloguing culture. The collab features the model’s clean monotone looks, decorated with Hartcopy’s signature red typo stitch.
adidas x Kith
If your after something a little more colourful Kith’s got you covered. Frequent adidas collaborator Ronnie Fieg recently put together a BW Army collection, featuring four smooth summer colourways. On the other end of the spectrum, United Arrows also stood out with their all-black take on the stripped-back BW Army Decon.
Why Is the BW Army So Popular?
It’s all about the timing. As slim, terrace-inspired sneakers continue to dominate footwear, the BW Army has returned at exactly the right moment. While household name models like the Samba, Gazelle, and Handball Spezial have long established the trend, the BW Army offers something a little different. It delivers the same vintage appeal but with a cleaner, less saturated look that feels refreshingly understated.
The silhouette has also benefited from the continued popularity of luxury GAT-inspired sneakers. Rather than paying premium designer prices, many sneaker fans are now looking to the original source, which just so happens to be the more reasonable option.
In an era where sneaker trends move faster than ever, the BW Army feels remarkably authentic. It isn’t just a part of a brand’s history or fashion history. It's a shoe with real history, military roots, and decades of cultural influence behind it. Whether you know it as the BW Army, the German Army Trainer, or simply the sneaker that inspired Maison Margiela's Replica, its impact on footwear is impossible to ignore. Its the kind of shoe anyone can get behind, from fashion houses to your average sneakerhead.
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