90’s Nike Air was a great time for sneakerheads to be involved in and there are few trainers on the planet that have stood the test of time more than the Nike Air Max 90. After the success of the Nike Air Max 1, the first shoe to have a visible Air unit, the pressure was on for Tinker Hatfield to deliver. Almost 30 years since its original debut in 1990, it’s safe to say that the Nike shoe has certainly managed to deliver to the highest quality.
The humble Air Max shoe has seen thousands of colourways introduced, countless evolutions in shape and more developments in material than we even want to think about. What has not changed, however, is the level of cultural importance that this trainer has been able to maintain. From humble beginnings as a running sneaker to sell-out collaborations with fashion designers, the Nike Air Max 90 is undoubtedly one of the greatest shoes ever made, though its Nike Air that is still the real winner.
In the first part of a two-part piece, we’ll be taking a look at 20 of the best Nike Air Max colours, collaborations and materials that have ever released. Some of the Nike Air Max 90 best colourways have been featured, as well as some the Air Max 90 limited models. Expect to see some of the rarest Air Max 90s on the planet as we make our way through, and some great stories behind each one. Let’s take a look at the humble old Air Max 90.
Kaws x Nike Air Max 90 ‘Orginal Fake’ (2008)
There’s no better way to start off than with one of the simplest and most sought after Nike Air Max 90 collaborations of all time. In 2008, Nike began to work with Brian Donnelly, the artist who is better known as Kaws, and his Original Fake label. The two worked to create one of the most exclusive Air Max 90s to this day.
The shoe itself is simple but extremely effective, making it one of the best Air Max colourways around. Two colourways were released both made up of a leather and mesh combo, coming in either black or white. Lime accents help to elevate the look, making the shoe really pop. Kaws signature ‘XX’ logo is found on the toe box as well as on the tongue. Now, the shoe is on the list of nearly every Kaws collector on the planet, with pairs reselling for thousands of dollars.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Python’ (2003)
The early 2000s saw some of the best Air Max 90 colourways drop, with this being one of them. The simplicity of the ‘Python’ Air Max 90 is what really makes it. A monochromatic upper and simple colour blocking make this shoe a hit already, but the snake print is what sets it apart.
Appearing on both the Nike Air Max 90 and the Nike Air Trainer 1, this shoe has had a cult following for a number of years, with collectors around the world trying to cop. It might not have been a rare Nike Air Max 90, but it’s definitely one of the best to date. The shoe was fortunate enough to receive a retro this year with an additional black and green colourway also dropping. However, this still remains the king.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Powerwall Tier 0’ (2006)
To celebrate Nike’s 30 years in Air Max technology, Mark Parker, President of Nike at the time, announced the “3 Decades of Cushioning” pack. The shoe paid homage to Nike’s extensive work in the history of its Air releases and focused on creating 144 pairs of 56 pairs of shoes. The release was extremely limited, with pairs selling out instantly, making this one rare Air Max 90.
One of the stand out pairs from the Powerwall collection was this Nike Air Max 90. The shoe was designed to shoe the midsole off, with the bright orange midsole highlighting the Air Max bubble against a black upper. The black leather upper which has a snakeskin effect is a luxurious addition. The simplicity makes it one of the top Air Max 90 colourways, and one of the rarest Nike Air Maxes around.
Chances of finding these now are quite slim, with a pair cropping up every few years or so at a great cost. If you do want one of the rarest Air Max 90s of all time, you better have deep pockets.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Homegrown’ by Patta (2006)
All Air Max 90s colourways have a story but fewer are better than that of the 2006 Homegrown Patta colourway. Amsterdam is steeped in a rich history, with beautiful museums, parks, canals and people. However, it wasn’t the above that Nike was interested.
The Swoosh teamed up with Dutch retailer Patta and State Magazine, popular hip-hop publication, to create this limited edition Nike Air Max 90. Tipping the cap to Holland’s relaxed laws around cannabis, the shoe, aptly called the ‘Homegrown’ was an homage to all things Cheech and Chong. The colourway which features ‘grass green’ and ‘orange blaze’ insinuated big things.
The shoe was an instant sellout, making it one of the top 10 Air Max 90s on the planet and one of the most popular Air Max 90s for collectors to try and get ahold of. If you’re looking to get your hands on a pair, you better have deep pockets.
Nike Air Max ‘Moon Landing’ (2014)
The space race made up a lot of the 1960s, with Russia and the USA fighting to be the first to leave earth. Whilst Yuri Gagarin and the USSR may have got off the rock first, they didn’t make it to the moon. In order to commemorate 55 years since the Moon landing, the Swoosh released one the best Nike Air Max 90s in recent years.
The main draw from the shoe is undoubtedly the grey Moon pattern which covers the entire shoe, which is made up of 3M. It means that the shoe gleams once light touches it, making for a very cool effect. Touches of the American flag make up the rear of the shoe with stars and stripes across the heels. The Lunarlon (a nod to the lunar landing) sole was added, making it one of the best Air Max 90s around.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Off-White’ (2017)
Whilst aesthetically it might not be one of the best, in sneaker culture terms this shoe is legendary. Nike and Off-White’s collaboration created a level of hype that had only been seen since Kanye West Yeezy line. Leaked images of the shoes began to surface in early 2017, much to the delight of streetwear aficionados. Releasing as part of ‘The Ten’, the rare Nike Air Max 90 x Off-White was one of the standout silhouettes from the collection.
The upper of the sneaker has been constructed from white leather with blue foam and grey suede overlays. A white reflective “Swoosh” logo has been stitched on the lateral and medial sides. The signature quotation lettering from Off-White also appears on the medial side of the sneaker. Additional details include an orange zip tie as well as an icy blue translucent midsole which houses the Air unit cushioning system. This is one of the most expensive Air Max 90s on this list and it’s easy to see why.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Mowabb’ (2008)
Nike’s history with all-terrain equipment dates back to 1981 when the brand launched Nike Hiking after seeing Rick Ridgeway and John Roskelley climbing a mountain in the LDV. The image helped Nike launch their campaign to promote Nike Hiking, with the title “Not Everyone was Willing to Wait for Our Hiking Boots.”
It was the Swoosh’s first foray into the world of creating hiking kit and was the precursor for what would become Nike All Conditions Gear (ACG). When Nike launched the Nike Air Mowabb in 1991, it became an instant classic for those who loved the Huarache. Now the history is over, we can get to what this has to do with this cool Air Max 90.
In 2008, Nike launched the Air Max 90 ‘Mowabb’ to the applause of sneakerheads. The shoes had some neat additions, like the snakeskin leather mudguard and “King of the Mountain” stitched on the heel. The shoe was an instant hit and an ode to part of Nike’s history and success in the ACG line.
atmos x Nike Air Max 90 ‘Duck Camo’ (2013)
Atmos and Nike have a strong relationship when it comes to collaborations. In 2013 atmos were given the chance to create a Nike Air Max 90 pack, which tied in with the tenth anniversary of their Air Max 1 ‘Safari’ release. Two shoes were created; the Tiger Camo and the Duck Camo, both of which were released in limited quantities.
The Duck Camo was undoubtedly the better of the two, using a bold camouflage pattern against a black mesh. Paying homage to the classic ‘Infrared’ colourway of the original Nike Air Max 90, the soles accents are the same pinkish hue. It was a hit straight away, with 90s Air Max playing a part in the colourway, camo on top and mesh, what’s not to like?
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Escape II’ (2003)
The origins of the Escape pack date back to 1988 when Nike released Air Windrunners based on natural earth tones. In 2003, Nike released the Escape and Escape II pack to celebrate 25 years since the original release.
The Escape II pack was undoubtedly the best seller; donning lighter hues across the Nike Air Max 90, Nike Air Max 93, Nike Huarache and the Nike Trainer. The Air Max 90, however, was the standout pair. Using the same tan tones as the original Air Windrunners, the Air Max 90 was an instant hit. Leather, suede and nubuck all adorn this Air Max, as does the traditional mesh. It’s one of the rare Air Max 90s to find in great condition, with pairs coming up every so often.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Spruce Lime’ (2008)
The 1991 ‘Spruce Lime’ colourway was a hit when it first came out. However, much to the disappointment of sneakerheads, this Air Max 90 retro didn’t happen for over 17 years. That all changed in 2008 when JD Sports got their hands on the exclusive Air Max 90 colourway.
Using the same traditional colour blocking on all early Air Max 90 releases, the Spruce Lime utilises a teal leather mudguard with a lime swoosh. The traditional white mesh has also made its way to the shoe, making for a nice pairing with the white leather. This Air Max 90 exclusive to JD is getting harder and harder to get a hold of in good condition so snap them up if you get the chance.
Final Thoughts
That’s it for part one of the 20 top Nike Air Max 90 sneakers of all time. In part two we will be looking at some Nike Air Max limited edition colourways, some of the best Nike Air Max OG colourways and some 90s Air Max that we simply couldn’t ignore. Make sure you check back to KLEKTIVE for part two which is coming out very soon.
