Whether you're a die hard Air Max fan or not, the Nike Air Max 90 'Infrared' is more than just a colourway. It’s THE colourway, the one defined one of the most popular sneakers of all time.
It’s a cornerstone of Air Max history. A shoe that became a blueprint in an era where performance design collided with street culture in a way nobody had seen before. More than three decades after its debut, the Infrared still sits comfortably in the conversation for the greatest Nike colourway ever made, and the new 2026 3M edition proves there’s still room to evolve a classic.
Originally released in 1990 as the Air Max III, the silhouette was designed by legendary Nike architect Tinker Hatfield. Building on the revolutionary exposed Air technology he and his team first introduced on the Air Max 1, Hatfield took everything further with the Air Max 90. Bigger Air windows. Sharper lines. More aggressive panelling. And most importantly, colour placement that forced your eyes directly toward the heel unit. That’s where the ‘Infrared’ came in.
Against a neutral palette of white mesh, black leather and soft grey suede, the bright pink-red accents didn’t just pop, they exploded off the shoe. Nike originally referred to the shade as ‘Radiant Red’ before the now-iconic ‘Infrared’ nickname eventually stuck with sneakerheads worldwide. Either way, the impact was immediate. The colour highlighted the Air unit, eyestays, tongue branding and heel badge with a level of contrast that felt futuristic in 1990 and still feels fresh today.
The Air Max 90 'Infrared' quickly became one of those rare trainers that transcended its original purpose. Designed as a running shoe, adopted by everyone else. You saw them on feet in clubs, terraces and city streets long before the word “lifestyle” became an official category for sneakers. While other OG colourways from the era remain respected, Infrared became the Air Max 90.
Part of what makes the shoe so important is its consistency. Nike has revisited the 'Infrared' countless times over the years – from 2005 to 2008, 2010, 2015 and the beloved 2020 Retro – but the formula never really changes. White, grey, black and Infrared. Simple. Timeless. Untouchable.
The 2020 pair in particular became a fan favourite because Nike went deep into the archives. OG shape. OG branding. Even the Air Max III packaging returned. For a lot of collectors, it was the closest thing to owning a true 1990 pair without spending four figures on deadstock originals.
That’s what makes the 2026 ‘Infrared 3M’ release so interesting. Rather than simply retroing the exact same shoe again, Nike decided to reinterpret the icon. At first glance, the 2026 pair looks familiar. The colour blocking remains intact, the signature Infrared hits are exactly where you want them, and the overall shape still channels the DNA of the original. But the details tell a different story.
The biggest change comes through the upper construction. Traditional white mesh panels have been swapped out for reflective 3M material, giving the shoe an entirely different look under the right light. In daylight, it still reads like a classic Infrared. Once the flash hits, though, the shoe transforms completely. It’s a risky move, but messing with an icon always is.
Reaction from the Air Max community has been split. Some purists wanted a straight OG retro and weren’t convinced by the absence of mesh. Social media threads and YouTube reviews immediately filled with debates about creasing, breathability and whether the 3M update was even necessary. Others appreciated the fact Nike actually tried something different rather than endlessly recycling the same pair every five years.
The Air Max line has always been about progress. Visible Air itself was controversial when it launched in 1987. The Air Max 95 looked outrageous when it arrived. The Air Max Plus divided opinion too. Innovation has always sat at the heart of the franchise, even when people resist it at first.
The 2026 ‘Infrared 3M’ taps into that same spirit. It respects the original enough to preserve the colourway’s identity while adding something genuinely new. In a sneaker landscape where retros often feel predictable, that matters.
That’s why the ‘Infrared’ continues to endure. It isn’t tied to one scene, one era or one type of wearer. It belongs everywhere. Whether you remember seeing them in shop windows during the ‘90s or you’re picking up your first pair in 2026, the appeal remains the same. Few sneakers can genuinely claim “timeless” status. The Air Max 90 ‘Infrared’ earned it years ago.
The new 3M edition doesn’t replace the OG. It doesn’t need to. Instead, it adds another chapter to one of Nike’s greatest ongoing stories, proving that even after 35 years, the Infrared still knows how to grab your attention.
The Nike Air Max 90 'Infrared 3M' drops on 18 May, 2026.
